Haida Gwaii

Updated: Dec 23, 2019

Written by: Rose Lee


In June 2019 my partner and I checked two bike trips off our bucket list: cycling from our home in Victoria to the northern tip of Vancouver Island AND cycling the beautiful beaches of Haida Gwaii! We combined both of these trips into one amazing adventure.

We cycled from our home in Victoria, BC north to Port Hardy, at the northern tip of Vancouver Island. We then spent about 30 hours travelling on 2 ferries to reach Skidegate on Graham Island. Graham Island is one of two large islands, plus numerous smaller islands, that are collectively known as Haida Gwaii, the heartland of Haida territory. It is a magical, primordial archipelago, about 90 km off the north coast of BC. Travelling by mountain bikes enriched our experience: we were vulnerable to the weather, the wind, and the tides. The locals we met appreciated the effort we were making to absorb and explore this special place. Over our 8 days exploring Graham Island we cycled (and sometimes pushed our mountain bikes) over trails, beaches and quiet paved roads. Then we ferried and pedalled home, happier humans for the experience. 20 days, 4 ferries, 2 laundry-mats, 1440 kms cycled, and 32,426 ft climbed.

One technique that helps me enjoy any bike trip is packing light. My goal is to carry what I need so I can enjoy the staggering beauty around me rather than fret about whether I am carry too much gear, or worse, the wrong gear. I take care to pack clothes th